The 1940s were a time of constant change, with a shifting social landscape giving rise to innovation after innovation in the fashion world. From silhouettes to materials to overall aesthetics, everything about women’s clothing was different from year to year. Generally, though, we think of this time as a legendary comeback story fueled by sheer resilience—and in the end, it paved the way for the vibrant spirit of the ‘50s to take hold. Here, we’ll be examining the evolution of women’s fashion in the 1940s from utilitarian chic to revolutionary couture moments.

Defining the Fashion Trends

The early to mid 1940s were defined by one word: necessity. Due to material shortages, garments were manufactured with as little waste as possible, and the most efficient pieces to make became known as the utility suit. With strong shoulders, distinct menswear-like tailoring, and militaristic accents, these skirt suits became symbols of the everyday woman’s contribution to the war effort.

Of course, Hollywood was always there to remind people of the glamorous possibilities fashion could still hold. Katharine Hepburn shocked America by pushing boundaries in a full tuxedo in 1942’s Woman of the Year, while Rita Hayworth stunned in outfit after outfit in 1944’s Cover Girl. The presence of Hollywood made people’s lives more exciting and inspired them to balance out their more practical daytime wardrobe with fabulous, carefree eveningwear.

But then, Christian Dior changed everything. In 1947, the French designer debuted his iconic New Look series, characterized by cinched waistlines and full hips emphasized with voluminous tea-length skirts. This striking silhouette was such a smash that it’s still seen both on the catwalk and on the street today.

Signature 1940s Dresses & Outfits

While the utility suit was certainly a staple, it was far from the only thing women were wearing in the 1940s. In fact, the most recognizable type of garment from this time is the shirtwaist dress, a type of day dress with a bodice resembling a button-down shirt.

You probably recognize this rustic yet sophisticated garment from iconic films like A League of Their Own and The Notebook, where they were worn by actresses like Geena Davis and Rachel McAdams in a wide variety of colors and patterns! Modern fashionistas can add the Pure Cotton Beige 1940s Puff Sleeve Floral Dress and Green 1940s Lapel Button Ditsy Floral Dress to their wardrobe to bring this beautifully versatile style into the modern day. 

The other main trend of the era wasn’t a specific design like the shirtwaist dress, but rather an overall shift from utilitarianism to self-expression. We see this reflected in shows like Agent Carter, in which the titular Peggy Carter sports a mix of no-nonsense tailored suits and softer, more feminine dresses. Today, retro pieces such as the Purple 1940s Petunia Lapel Dress and Light Blue 1940s Floral Shirt Neck Belt Dress exemplify this gradual change by combining that signature shirt collar with fun patterns and flowing fabrics.

Working Women's Wardrobe Revolution

The 1940s also saw women entering the workplace en masse for the first time in America’s history, and that meant adapting their fashion choices to professional settings like offices and factories. 

While pants had been a feature of casual outfits and Hollywood couture for many years, for many ladies, this was the first time they were wearing them in public, let alone to work. Trousers and jumpsuits like the ones seen in the 2012 series Bomb Girls were emblematic of female empowerment, becoming immortalized by Rosie the Riveter and the beloved “We Can Do It!” poster. The Red 1940s Tie-Neck Striped Jumpsuit and 2-Piece 1940s Satin Puff Sleeve Blouse & Glen Plaid Overall Pants take this liberated attitude and blend it with fabulous tailoring and ladylike accents to create something truly special for contemporary retro lovers.

And when pants weren’t an option, like in city office jobs, smart separates like the 2-Piece 1940s Peter Pan Collar Floral Blouse & Slit Skirt took center stage. The pairing of blouses with skirts was far from new, but in this new corporate world, it allowed for a snappier, more professional look than your typical shirtwaist dress. Try the 1940s Dot Bowknot V-Neck Blouse along with the Coffee 1940s High-Waist Solid Skirt to achieve a similar effect and bring some color back to the office!

Evening Glamour & Special Occasions

The Pure Cotton 1940s V-Neck Floral Dress serves as a playful reimagining of the modest yet elegant fashions of the 1940s with its open neckline and carefully gathered fabric. Available in beige and pale mint, this piece features gorgeous floral embroidery and is made of 100% cotton for maximum comfort and breathability.

The Beige 1940s Floral Lace Collar Cap Sleeve Dress is a slightly more unconventional take on iconic ‘40s motifs, breathing new life into the classic shirtwaist construction with a corset-like waist panel and a delicate lace collar. Similarly, the Red 1940s Floral V-Neck Added Button Dress modernizes a mid-century staple with a daring asymmetrical hem that contrasts perfectly with its demure red-and-white floral fabric.

For the ladies who prefer a sleeveless look, the Pink 1940s Deep V-Neck Chiffon Rose Dress is a fantastic option, with an array of painterly roses decorating its flowing fabric and matching belt. Alternatively, there’s the White 1940s Floral Lapel Patchwork Dress, which boasts a breathtakingly unorthodox halter neckline formed from a crisp floral-print shirt collar. Between that and the explosion of botanicals that adorn the hemline, this is a wonderful dress for anyone looking for that ‘40s flavor in a contemporary garment.

The Green 1940s Sweetheart Ditsy Floral Dress is prim and proper from top to bottom at first glance, sporting intricate green floral print and rose-engraved pearlescent buttons. Along its hem, though, is a secret detail you might not spot right away: a small slit that makes it so much more than a housewife’s party dress. The Pink 1940s Deep V-Neck Butterfly Satin Dress actually shares this same feature, but it also has buttons so you can easily conceal the slit if needed. Whether or not you feel like showing some leg, the real highlight of this piece is its subtle butterfly-embossed pink satin that’s pleated at the shoulders for that extra hint of sophistication.

Luxury fabrics like satin and chiffon never truly disappeared, especially when it came to the silver screen, but once rationing was no longer necessary, they were more popular than ever. As seen in the 2020 miniseries Hollywood, the same trends still reigned supreme, but with more fabric available, the long dresses associated with wealth and prosperity were actually more accessible. This is usually the time period you picture when you imagine ‘40s glamour, with pieces like the Black 1940s Rose Lantern Sleeve Lace-Up Dress and the 1940s Solid Silk Buttoned Tea Dress making grand statements at any high-end party. If you prefer the look of the shorter skirts, though, you can always opt for the 1940s Deep V-Neck Pearl Velvet Dress to channel your inner Old Hollywood diva instead.

Swimwear 

Swimsuits in the 1940s were still quite modest but were well on their way to becoming the stylish, personality-filled pieces we know today. Just look at 1945’s Mildred Pierce, where the legendary Joan Crawford dons a straightforward yet sassy white two-piece with a halter strap neckline and full-coverage boyshorts! You can easily capture that same mature vibe with a colorful twist with the Pink 1940s Halter Polka-Dot Bow One-Piece Swimsuit or the 1940s Striped Colorblock Retro Bikini Set.

You might not believe it, but the 1940s actually gave the world the very first bikini! In 1946, mechanical engineer Louis Réard and model Micheline Bernardini introduced the French public to a triangle bikini that exposed the wearer’s navel—a feat which was absolutely unheard of at the time. While this doesn’t seem all that scandalous today, the bikini wasn’t accepted enough to come into mainstream fashion until decades later, so its debut was extremely ahead of its time. The 1940s Halter Patchwork One-Piece Swimsuit is your quintessential 1940s one-piece with an overall modest design that still sparkles with personality thanks to the polka-dot trim and halter strap neckline. Even better, it comes in six colors so you can tailor it even more to your personal tastes! On the other hand, the Green 1940s Striped Halter Swimsuit Set does a great job of balancing the chaste sensibilities of the era with today’s more daring attitude, from the two-piece design to the tied halter straps to the decorative floral buttons on the bottoms.

Modern Styling: Bringing 1940s Fashion to the 2020s

If you’re itching to bring some ‘40s flair into your life, a good place to start is to identify what aspects of the fashion you like the most and then mix and match it with contemporary couture elements. For example, let’s look at the second season of Why Women Kill, which takes place in 1949: the characters tend to dress in the classic silhouettes of the time, but the show also adds intrigue and memorability by executing those designs in vibrant colors and high-end materials that many people wouldn’t have worn too often. This fusion of eras creates a really fun timeless feeling that’s a blast to play around with! And if you’re not sure what you like yet, you can browse Retro Stage’s 1940s-inspired collection for some inspiration. 

Why 1940s Fashion Endures

A time of innovation, evolution, and making do with what you had, the 1940s were influenced by a unique historical context that led to utility and next-level glamour not only coexisting, but blending together. This phenomenon is beautifully represented in many 21st-century TV shows and films that show off the range of fashions available throughout the decade, from skirt suits with masculine tailoring to irresistible swimwear and lingerie. Of course, there’s nothing quite like finding your own favorites from an era, so if the ‘40s are calling you, answer them! Start experimenting with your wardrobe today and find your new go-to outfit.